As the muezzin's early morning call to prayer echoes around the narrow, dusty streets of Orjan, Mohamad Dwekat and his wife, Maysoon, begin their day. Here in the Al Ayoun region of Jordan, about an hour north of the capital, Amman, the dawn air is deliciously cool and laden with the scent of pine and pomegranate. Cleaning out the tabun - clay oven - in the courtyard of his simple home, Dwekat stops to greet a shepherd herding his flock of goats towards the nearby hills. Three French tourists are scheduled to arrive at Dwekat's three-storey house before lunch. They will sleep in comfortable beds with crisp linen sheets. They will dine on the freshest hummus and mouth-watering maklouba (a...
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